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Chasing Chop Suey: Tracing Chinese Immigration Through Food

The hyphen always seems to demand negotiation.

Fred Wah

“OKAY, so what should I do?” I ask. I’m staring at my mom’s kitchen counter, which has been overtaken by ingredients: onions, celery, carrots, bean sprouts, cremini mushrooms, chicken breasts, green onions, and a brimming bowl of su choy.

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